Roger Frison-Roche

Roger Joseph Fernand Frison-Roche (10 February 1906 – 17 December 1999) was a French mountain guide, ski instructor, explorer, journalist and novelist. He is best known for his mountaineering novel Premier de cordée, published in English as First on the Rope, which sold more than three million copies. His reporting and books drew on mountaineering in the French Alps and on journeys in the Sahara and the Arctic. His books were widely translated and sold in the millions. In 1930 he became the first person not born in Chamonix to be admitted to the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix.